Sashita's ISRAEL Blog

MAGIC EYES…. | February 14, 2010

My last day in Cairo. All my traveling companions had left and I was spending a day alone, roaming around the now familiar streets, peeking into book shops. I was on a quest: to find a good historical account of the life of Cleopatra. I was needing some inspiration about a tough female who didn’t take crap or ‘no’ for an answer. Pyramids of Giza

Egypt is different from other Arab countries I have visited of late, because of the deep history of its civilization. I am not sure that ANY country in in the Middle East can boast the deep ancient history of Egypt. Palestinians might talk to you about 500-600 years of the Common Era- the history of Prophet Mohammed, “May peace and blessings be upon him” (thats how its said…so I gotta also….). In Damascus, Syria they might teach you about the ancient grandeur of this city, since Damascus is believed to be the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world. In Jordan, people might focus on the Colonial history and the partition of Middle East by the French and the British in the beginning of the twentieth century. In Lebanon, they will be eager to provide a chronological account of all the recent (and not so recent) Israeli invasions, complete with a detailed tour of the bombed bridges and recently restored buildings. However, without even addressing the Neolithic period, Egypt, as a unified dynastic state, dates back to 3150 B.C.E. I am no historian…but that is a long time. I am certain that for everyone, young and old, even those who have never set foot outside their hometown, just the word “Egypt” immediately evokes images of lavish pharaohs, gigantic pyramids with mysterious tombs and mummies. When you see it with your own eyes though…it is really quite impressive.Downtown Cairo

Even the kind of patriotism one encounters in Egypt is different. It is more grounded, more visceral. Jordanians are proud of, say, their developed infrastructure. Lebanese boast their Westernized mentality and lifestyle. (There is a reason Beirut used to be known as the “Paris of the Middle East.” Now, the Lebanese people, from what I saw, are very eager to reestablish themselves as the peacefully joyous, licentious and lavish nation that they once were. After all the recent threats to their sovereignty: the long, bloody civil war; occupation by Syria; attacks by Israel- most Lebanese just want to forgive, forget and move on).

The Palestinian nationalism differs from that of Egypt. Since the sudden and surprising arrival of the State of Israel, the Palestinian nationalism is extremely defensive, high-pitched, nervous, and neurotic even. They live for a hope for, a dream of, and Idea of a state, rather than a reality. It is the patriotism for an order that might someday come to be…not the one that ever existed before or exists now. However, in Egypt, the love of their country seems not to be rooted so much in their government, their infrastructure, their lifestyle or an idea of a redemptive struggle. It is not even rooted entirely in the people. The love that Egyptians express for their country goes deeper into the earth itself. This love finds it origin in the depths of history, in the ancient underground tombs. This love saturates the soil, the desert, the mountains. It bubbles to the surface at the origin of River Nile and spreads its nourishment throughout the vast expanses of the country. Life was attracted to the banks of the Nile from the beginning of time. The patterns of flooding and recession of its waters (which dictated either good crops or drought) have ruled the lives of the people stronger than all the successive kingdoms, invasions and governments combined. This River and the rich agricultural soil surrounding it, IS the true mother of this country. I heard many Egyptians harshly criticize their political system, poverty, corruption, but I forget the last time I have heard criticism followed by such intense proclamations of loyalty: “But….I Love Egypt, I can’t imagine life anywhere else!”Boats on River Nile

I guess recently, this love might have been aided by the fact that Egypt won the African Soccer Cup. While in Cairo, I watched Egypt utterly destroy its mortal rival- Algeria, and then in the final game, bring the victory home with a decisive goal against Ghana. Egypt is the most successful nation in the African Cup’s history, winning the tournament a record seven times. This year, Egypt reclaimed the title for the third time in a row. The demonstrations in the streets, all night long, were incredible. There is nothing like a major sports victory to boost a country’s self esteem. Festivities before the soccer match..

Keeping to this subject, a foreign girl traveling in Egypt might get a jolting boost to her self-esteem. (But only if one is into that sort of thing…which…the writer of this humble tale is definitely NOT). Why? Because the Egyptian ‘shabab’ (or ‘young guys’) simply cennot let a female tourist pass by without making a scene. English, clearly, is not their top subject, so I have been able to compile all the remarks intoone short list. Imagine, you are a 5 foot 5 (ok, maybe 4) girl. You have a tight ponytail, dirty tennies, and what you feel is a generally unassuming appearance. You are walking along, minding your own business, trying to keep a low profile. Oh but NO. In Egypt, such a thing is impossible! The most common thing you will be asked by random strangers is “where are you from?” If you say you are from America, they will say: “Oh! OBAMA! We like!”. If you mention you are from Russia, you might get: “Oh! Russia! Beautiful!” That’s pretty harmless. However, then they might look you in the face and escalate the conversation to: “ Oh! Mazzzhhhiiiik eyes! (with this peculiar emphasis on the letter ‘g’). And finally, the linguists in the group sometimes take it to the next level by complimenting you on your “Nice ASS!” At this point, your blood begins to boil, but from experience you know, that attempting to engage them will just further suck you into the mud. Even trying to retaliate in Arabic by saying (‘Ayb Aleik’- ‘shame on you’) does not work. So you keep walking, clutching your purse, knuckles turned white from irritation.

However, there was one particular incident when we (my friend Audrey and I) could not help but act particularly unlady-like. It goes without saying that our clothes automatically give us away as foreigners. But, may I mention, that while I at least dye my hair dark in a pathetic attempt to blend in…my friend Audrey’s hair is utterly and un-apologetically RED. So, through no fault of her own, she might as well have a shimmering billboard sign attached to her head, with the invitation: Please harass me, Harass me now!” So, we were walking along the Nile River in Luxor. We were a little tired, maybe a little hungry, maybe needing a beer….and some already familiar Egyptian enthusiast shouted in our direction: “Ooh…i like the BACKSIDE!” We felt fury bubbling up from the bottom of our tippy-toes all the way to our chins and simultaneously shouted a universal : F**K YOU!” Pretty sure they got the message.Locals taking pictures with Audrey

So why why why I am recounting the minute details of our petty trials and tribulations. First, to demonstrate the particular daily anxiety one experiences when traveling to Egypt. While by no means all people are like this, I did notice that the amount of harassment in Egypt easily topples what I have encountered in other countries of the Middle East. I am not sure why this is. I think a lot has to do with government corruption, unwisely distributed resources and the consequent jarring lack of education among Egyptians. Furthermore, some of it definitely has to do with the media and the perception of Western women. And a big part comes from society’s (and Islamic) rules. The Egyptian society, like in most of the Middle East, is very religious. This means that people cannot date until they are married (or engaged). Even engagement is a period when a couple can go out for coffee, for lunch, they might even steal a brief moment of privacy and engage in the dangerous act of hand-holding. But nothing more. So, I will carefully suggest that there exists a degree of frustration that finds an outlet in catcalling and harassing in the streets. Especially to foreign girls, who probably symbolize all that is allowed in the West, and forbidden in Egypt. Bedouin guide on Mt. Sinai

Another factor that, in my opinion, puts a strain on society is the particular pressure, which is placed on the men. In order to marry, a man must not only reach the age of maturity, but also get an education, establish a career, and save up enough money for a house. The pressure on the women is to stay pure, untouched and loyal. While the pressure (self-imposed also) on the men is to be able to provide for all the needs of their stay-at-home wife and children. This distances the time of marriage to late twenties if not early- to mid-thirties. At first I thought it was wild but with time, I understood that this is the norm.

As I apprehensively contemplate the future (and those who know me well will attest that I am always apprehensive about something), living and working in Cairo is presenting itself as an accessible option. However, I am absolutely not sure if I would be able to handle it. It might turn out to be a necessary, but a rather bitter pill to swallow.Downtown Cairo

However, I am not completely pessimistic. By the end of our trip, Audrey and I got smart and finally found a way to retaliate against our tormentors. In Cairo, like any gigantic city (20-22 million people..) there are many, MANY beggars. Audrey and I, as Americans: the walking symbols of all that is wealthy and prosperous, were continuously asked for “baksheesh” (or “change” in Egyptian dialect). So, when the next Egyptian dude who wanted to show off to his friends, came up to tell us how beautiful we are, and asked to get to know us, and if he may take a picture with us—the poor fella found himself completely dumbfounded when the two American girls stretched out the palms of their hands, a sheepish expression on their faces, and demanded BAKSHEESH! Given time, I think we could seriously line our pockets.Tourism Police…guards everywhere…not to monitor, but to protect the tourists.